Traceability and Human Rights: Some Insights and Ways Forward for Japan’s Seafood Supply Chains
IUU (illegal, unreported, unregulated) fishing
Although spring is gradually approaching, March still brings a chill in the air.
The culmination of "The Blue Camp," a program where students learn about ocean and food sustainability, was a pop-up restaurant in Kyoto called "KAJI - helm -" held at Community Kitchen DAIDOKORO (Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto). What were the "three choices" that the eight students who participated in the program conveyed through their cooking?
Pop-up restaurant opens! Program participants look a little nervous.
"The Blue Camp" is a 4.5-month program launched in 2023 by Chefs for the Blue, a team of top chefs dedicated to the future of the ocean, where participants learn about and practice sustainability in the ocean and food. Now in its third year, the program has produced 47 graduates.
The program includes lectures on food culture and resource management from journalists and Fisheries Agency officials, fieldwork at fishing ports, and training at top-class chefs' restaurants where participants learn about menu and service creation—content that even adults would envy. I say "even adults" because this program is open to "vocational school students and university students who will become 'future stakeholders'" (sorry, adults!). The number of applicants increases every year, and this year there were four times as many applications as there were spots for 16 people from all over the country.
"The Blue Camp" is held in Tokyo and Kyoto. The event I attended was a limited-time pop-up restaurant in Kyoto that was open for about a week. When I went to the reception, I was immediately greeted by fresh-faced chefs wearing matching aprons who cheerfully said, "Welcome!"
Mr. Nakanishi recounts the shock he felt upon learning of the drastic decline in squid populations.A cute little squid on a stick (bottom photo) was placed on the table. While everyone wondered what we were going to do, the presenter, Momoka Nakanishi (top photo), said, "Now everyone, please shake this squid vigorously!" About 30 adults did as they were told, shaking the squid above their heads. Then, with one exception, she said, "Now everyone, please lower the squid's stick." What on earth were we supposed to do?
Participants swinging squid on sticks (Photo by Norio Kidera)"In 2000, everyone was shaking their squid lures. Now, only one person is doing it. The number of Japanese flying squid caught has decreased by 94% compared to 2000. I was shocked when I learned this five months ago through this program."
It was a moment when the adorable squid suddenly looked lonely. That's right. The catch, which was about 30 tons in 2000, has decreased by more than 9% by 2024, and continues to be a record low of about 1.8 tons*.
"But if we change our daily choices, we can change this situation. So, I've created a menu with three themes, putting into practice what I've learned recently. First of all, please enjoy it."
We adults have created a heavy reality. Can we make choices that will create a brighter future? With this challenge, in a good way, we began cooking.
The rich, flavorful crab cream and the crispy pastry crust are simply irresistible. (Photo by Norio Kidera)The first dish was a Vol-au-Vin with a generous portion of red snow crab on top, making a huge impact.
The key point in this selection is "who acquired it." The presenter suggested, "When making a selection, it's not just about examining the product itself, but also about considering 'who acquired and nurtured it.'"Takeshi Sorimachi.
From that perspective, the producer we've chosen this time is Fujio Yamashita, the only snow crab fisherman in Fukui Prefecture who "doesn't rejoice at a bountiful catch." Why is that, when a bountiful catch should be a cause for celebration?
The reason for this was the drastic decline in the catch. Mr. Yamashita is steadily continuing his efforts to "not overfish" by returning small crabs to the sea and keeping catch records in order to restore the catch. He also has a desire to pass on his business to his son.
"However, these efforts are difficult for consumers to understand. I hope that by knowing about the producers' efforts and then consuming their products, consumers can support them," she said.Sorimachi-sanHe said.
Participants listening intently to Mr. Sorimachi's explanation (Photo by Norio Kidera)
The yellowish parts in the lower left are scales. The crispy texture combined with the soft sashimi is delightful. (Photo by Norio Kidera)The second dish is Nigorobuna Declination. The aroma of natural watercress and the vibrant golden-yellow color of the crucian carp roe are sure to whet your appetite. Nigorobuna is relatively familiar in the Kansai region, but recently it has become less common to see it in stores than before. If opportunities to eat it decrease, the number of fishermen who catch it will also decrease. Nozomi Nishii, a fisherman on Lake Biwa and the fourth-generation owner of the seafood wholesaler "Yamasa Suisan Co., Ltd.", is working hard to try and stop this decline.
"It would be a shame if this valuable food culture were to disappear simply because of the impression that it might taste muddy. Mr. Nishii prepares each crucian carp individually, so there is absolutely no unpleasant smell, and his meticulous work contributes to its delicious taste." Presenter Kazuki Tabuchi, who was shocked after tasting Mr. Nishii's crucian carp, spoke passionately about his experience.
One of the highlights of this dish is the use of crucian carp sashimi. While it's generally unusual, "thanks to Mr. Nishii's superb technique in preparing the fish and the clean waters of Lake Biwa, it can be eaten raw." We savored this precious flavor, a testament to the interplay between people and the environment, with admiration.
Mr. Tabuchi enthusiastically recounts the stories behind his dishes (Photo by Norio Kidera)
Pan-seared black sea bream. The sauce made with fish stock is a perfect match for the white fish. (Photo by Norio Kidera)The theme of the third item is "Choosing not to choose." It's a theme that sounds like a Buddhist "question and answer." What exactly does that mean?
"With the catch decreasing and the fish that we used to be able to catch no longer available, I thought that instead of being selective, we should deliberately choose 'not to be selective' and simply accept what is available," presenter Sorimachi passionately stated.
The fish served was either black sea bream or Spanish mackerel, both caught in fixed nets in Obama, Fukui Prefecture. Since it depended on what was caught, each participant didn't know which fish they would get until it arrived at their table. I received black sea bream. It was a dish where you could enjoy the fluffy white flesh and the crispy skin from start to finish.
When we say "we'll take what we have," it creates a need—or rather, a source of enjoyment—for those who cook or consumers to think about how to prepare dishes based on what they've gathered. We often hear "we create the future by making choices," but I enjoyed the idea of "creating the future without making choices."
Minami Matsushima speaks to the participants. The conversations between students and participants are also part of the restaurant's charm (Photo: Norio Kidera)
A fish soup characterized by its vibrant orange color. (Photo by Norio Kidera)Finally, from the three themes introduced so far—Empathie, Bâton, and Ce qui est là—participants chose one that resonated with them the most, and a dish corresponding to that theme was served.
The theme I chose was Ce qui est là (This is it). The final dish, in keeping with this theme, was a colorful fish soup. It was a soup made with various fish provided by Masanori Tsurutani of Tsuruichi, a fish wholesaler that sells underutilized fish landed at Akashiura Fishing Port under the name "Indie Fish." There was absolutely no fishy smell, and the taste was surprisingly clean. Yet, it had a deep umami flavor. It was a delicious taste that warmed my stomach.
A dish that evokes empathy. The precious Akashi octopus, whose population is rapidly declining, is used in this octopus rice dish, made with octopus from Yosuke Kusunoki of Kinan Suisan Co., Ltd., served on rice mixed with herbs. (Photo: Norio Kidera)
A dish that connects to the baton. A traditional Fukui dish, ochazuke (rice with tea) made with domestically produced mackerel "heshiko". (Photo: Norio Kidera)Just as it's said that "shopping is a vote for the future," "choosing what to eat is also a vote for the future." However, in order to make a choice, you need to know about what you're about to choose, and it's not surprising that sometimes you might think, "This is difficult."
The three dishes I received this time blew away those little worries and reminded me of the joy of making choices. Choosing based on the producer, choosing from the perspective of preserving food culture, or even deliberately choosing "not to choose." Making choices that create a sustainable and prosperous future should be more free and enjoyable! Along with the deliciousness, a light message like a spring breeze left a lasting impression on me.
The name of this shop, "Kaji" (helm), means "the thing that determines the course of a ship." Empathy for producers - Empathie (empathy), passing on food culture to the next generation - bâton (baton), choosing not to choose - Ce qui est là (that's it).
The fisheries industry still faces many challenges, but we hope to use the three messages that the students have come up with as a "rudder" to create a sustainable future, and continue to make "choices" while enjoying food.
Text by Chief Communication Officer Mariko Arikawa
share
Key terms and concepts to understand seafood sustainability.
