A North American sushi specialist talks about "Japanese seafood has an overwhelming trust, but how can we take advantage of this advantage?" (Part 2)

In Part 1, Mr. Ishikawa spoke about his relationship with American supermarkets and other food-related clients, as well as with Japanese suppliers. He also introduced the changes in the food industry and their history, with sustainability being one of the three pillars of risk management required in the American food industry.

In Part 2, we will continue to hear about his specific platform for initiatives and his message to Japan.

The three pillars of food risk management

--You mentioned that safety and sustainability are key to risk management in the food business in the U.S. What specific measures are being taken?

Risk management is supported by various certification systems. For food safety, GFSI* recognizes individual certification systems as global standards. Ten years ago, it was hardly known in Japan, but in 10, GFSI held the "World Food Safety Conference 2018" in Tokyo.

It was a big step forward that the Japanese JFS (Japan Food Safety) standard was recognized by GFSI as a food safety standard, along with SQF (USA) and BRC (UK). This certification is a guarantee of the highest level of safety. For a large buyer like me, that alone is sufficient risk management.

Similarly, seafood sustainability is guaranteed byGSSI(Global Sustainable Seafood Initiative). Certification systems approved by GSSI include ASC, MSC,BAPThere are also other certifications such as MEL, which is a sustainable seafood certification unique to Japan. With such certification, you can confidently sell your seafood to the global market.

In addition to GFSI for safety and GSSI for sustainability, a third initiative is SSCI, which focuses on ethical sourcing.^***These are the three pillars that make a difference in the international market.

*GFSI (Global Food Safety Initiative) is a non-profit organization established in 2000. It is run by the international food industry network, The Consumer Goods Forum (TCGF). It recognizes food safety certification systems and standards that meet the requirements of various countries around the world. For more information,CLICK HERE

**GFSI Recognition of JFS The JFS-C Standard, operated by the Japan Food Safety Management Association (JFSM), a general incorporated foundation, was approved by GFSM in March 2020.

***SSCI (Sustainable Supply Chain Initiative) Established in 2017, it is run by TCGF. In addition to sustainability, it recognizes products that meet the requirements of various third-party certification systems that ensure that products are produced and distributed in a socially responsible manner, with consideration given to human rights, including working conditions. Due to its nature, it requires an evaluation of not only production but the entire supply chain. For more information,CLICK HERE

The three pillars that support the quality and risk management of the ingredients that CCL provides are safety guaranteed by GFSI, sustainability guaranteed by GSSI, and socially responsible sourcing guaranteed by SSCI (CCL's "Three Pillars of Responsible Sourcing" Diagram)

What we expect from Japanese producers

--To what extent are Japanese producers able to meet these conditions?

For example, Aqua Blue, a Global Ocean Works Group company based in Kagoshima, has ASC certification for its farmed yellowtail, and we probably buy about 9% of that yellowtail. Having ASC certification means that it meets both GFSI and GSSI standards.

The truth is, yellowtail is a fish species that we want to buy more of, and in fact we would like to buy three or four times as much as we do now...We have other potential suppliers, but we are unable to handle them because our production facilities are not GFSI certified for safety, which is frustrating.

--It seems like there is a gap in awareness between buyers and their client companies.

Yes, that's true. Thankfully, several producers in Japan have obtained GFSI certification at our request. We even purchased a container full from a producer who had just obtained certification.

Sustainability is important, but if food safety is also a major consideration, the global market will open up before our eyes. This will enable sustainable seafood products to be delivered more widely, in greater quantities, and farther away.

As for the produce I buy, as long as the producers are GFSI, GSSI, and SCCI certified, I can take it to any big, strict company in the U.S. Even if my customers don't require specific certification, I can rest assured that my sourcing is safe, sustainable, and socially responsible.

How an Irishman who doesn't like raw food got involved with sushi ingredients

By the way, how did you arrive at the theme of "clean and green" sushi and seafood that is being touted at CCL?

It all started when I met an organically certified salmon farmer whilst working for Enterprise Ireland.

It was a salmon farm in the west of Ireland, and I was shocked to hear about the amount of chemicals used in the food I eat. I helped export that salmon to North America, and since then I've become a fan of clean salmon.

--How do you get from there to sushi?

After leaving the Irish Enterprise Agency, through a friend I got a job as a consultant in the super frozen seafood department of a Japanese trading company that was trying to set up a seafood division in the US.

In 2008, that division was sold to Uoriki, a fresh fish retailer and wholesaler, and I moved to Japan with them. During my time at Uoriki, I even stood at the storefront and shouted "Irasshaimase!" I visited fishing ports all over Japan and learned so much at Uoriki.

After that, I started my own company in 2016, and my clients asked me to use my experience and knowledge to help their sushi business. My experience in Japan has led to my current work at CCL.

Now I'm a big fan of sushi myself, and I love bluefin tuna. ...But actually, it took my Japanese wife a year to take me to a sushi restaurant before we got married. Finally, one day she took me to a sushi restaurant in Manhattan, and after one bite, I ran to the bathroom and spat it out. But when I came back from the bathroom, she was laughing with the restaurant owner. "What's so funny? We've never eaten raw fish," I said indignantly, and he replied, "That's a vegetable roll." It was an epiphany.

Ultra-low temperature frozen tuna procured by CCL (left) and sushi made using it (right). Delivering high-quality ingredients that restaurants can be proud to serve

Traceability ensured by a non-competitive platform

--Honestly, what is the relationship between companies and NGOs like? Is there anything that companies can gain from it?

Very much so. Third-party certification is essential to ensure the current distribution of safe and sustainable seafood. Non-competitive collaboration is key to this. It overlaps with the activities of NGOs, but many companies are participating.

One of the activities we are participating in is creating standards for the traceability of seafood.GDSTThere is a Global Dialogue on Seafood Traceability. If we cannot ensure seamless traceability from production to the end of distribution, both safety and sustainability will be in doubt.

To ensure this traceability, third-party certification is essential. It is no good if a company says, "This fish was caught in Tokyo Bay using sustainable fishing methods." Direct stakeholders cannot guarantee reliability.

So the answer to the question: do NGOs and non-competitive platforms benefit private companies? is 100% yes.

By joining GDST, we now have a fully transparent and traceable supply chain, which has increased our credibility with clients and has led to new business deals. Our business has grown as a direct result of joining GDST.

By joining the Global Tuna Alliance (GTA), which aims to conserve tuna resources, we are now able to do business with supermarkets across North America. Our largest client, Wegmans, is also a member of GTA. Our relationships with various organizations over the years have led to great benefits not only in our thinking but also in our business.

I am always in contact with the ASC, MSC and MEL secretariat in Japan and am always looking for certified fisheries companies in Japan, because certification is the first indicator and a choice of business partners to handle our products.

I want them to make better use of this advantage

--What are your impressions of doing business with Japanese fisheries companies? What do you honestly expect from them?

Japan is recognised around the world for the overwhelming quality of its seafood. In the West, half of the fish is thrown away before it even reaches the store, but in Japan, 9% of the fish is used and there are all kinds of ways to eat it.

Of all international cuisines, Japanese food has had the greatest growth in the United States over the past 50 years. It is considered to be the most outstanding in the world, especially when it comes to fish and seafood. As the birthplace of sushi and sashimi, Japan is perceived to know everything about seafood, if that's a preconceived notion.

Japan should take advantage of this situation. There is no need for further sales or marketing, just "understand the buyer." So what I'm saying is, if you're going to bring your products to America, please understand the buyer. Please put English labels on them. Please adapt the nutrition labeling to our format. And while you're at it, please listen to what we want to buy.

I would like to say this to those involved in promoting the export of Japanese seafood products: rather than spending a lot of money to bring Western buyers to Japan, I would like Japanese producers to come here and see the average consumer, and spend three hours in a supermarket observing shoppers.

For example, let's say we put "Furikake" on the shelves. When an average housewife sees it, she'll probably ask, "What is this? What should I do with it?" But if she sees that it's a seasoning made from natural ingredients, low in salt, and safe for children to eat, she might pick it up. It's important to explain it in the other person's words so that they can understand.

I don't think Japan's current advantage will last forever, which is why I want to take advantage of it while I can and properly promote Japanese seafood -- not only as high quality, but also as something we can be proud of as coming from a safe, sustainable, and ethical supply chain.

Michael McNicholas
Originally from Ireland, he currently resides in New York State. After working for a Japanese trading company and a fresh fish retail and wholesale company, he founded CCL in 2016. CCL provides safe, sustainable and top-quality ingredients to its main clients, which are companies that provide take-out sushi in North America. CCL was the first to fully introduce ultra-low temperature frozen tuna to the US, which is now available in over 2,000 retail stores and restaurants across the US. CCL is also dedicated to localizing the food culture of sushi and sashimi by introducing Japanese fishing and processing methods to local US fishermen.

Interviewed and written by: Keiko Ihara
He was in charge of design research and concept studies at a general design office until 2002. Since 2008, he has been involved in design research at infield design, and also works as a freelance writer and translator of design-related articles.